Bmw Torque Specs Pdf
2021年5月2日Download here: http://gg.gg/ugkn1
*Bmw Bolt Torque Specs
*Bmw Torque Specs Pdf Tool
Bmw Torque Specs Pdf. Bmw Torque Specs Pdf. Post E46 M3 torque spec’s and I’ll add them here. Engine Oil drain plug: 18 ft-lbs Oil. Torque in Nm at rpm 260/280. 2,200 Number of cylinders and configuration In-line 6 Engine capacity in cm3 2,497 Stroke/bore in mm 82.8/80 Compression ratio 22: 1 Valves/cylinder 2 Period used 2/96 - 9/02 Engine management DDE2.1 DDE2.2 Engine M57D25O0 Series E39 Models 525d Power output in kW/ bhp at rpm 120/163 4,000 Torque in Nm at rpm 350. Jointing torque. 90 ° Torque angle. 90 ° Cylinder head bolts. N40 / N42 / N45 / N46. Tightening specifications. For M8 and M10 screws are identical: Replace, wash and oil screws. Jointing torque. AZD Cylinder Head with Cover.
*BMW 3-Series Torque Specs. Over 6,000 Automotive Torque Specs. Search Car Torque Specifications by Engine or Model. Torque Spec Database. Click on One of the Links Below. Model Torque Specifications. Engine Torque Specifications for BMW 3-Series: BMW 1.8L-110ci-S4 BMW 1.9L-116ci-S4.
*1 AZD00-01.frb 20/10/97 00 - General Instructions Type Screw Dimensio n Unit 00 00 Extract from company standard BMW N 600 02.0 The maximum tightening torques are: Only applicable to shaft screws with metric standard and fine threads acc.< PREV PAGENEXT PAGE >Page 1
11 12 Cylinder Head with Cover
Type
Thread
Tightening specification
Measure
Seiki vinyl cutter software. 5AZ Cylinder head bolts
M51 / M41
M11
Replace, wash and oil
screws
Jointing torque
80 Nm
Loosen all bolts 1/2 turn
Jointing torque
50 Nm
Torque angle
90
°
Torque angle
90
°
Warm-running time
25 min
Torque angle
90
°
6AZ Cylinder head bolts
M40 / M42 /
M43 / M43TU /
M44 / M50 /
S50 US / S52 /
M52 / with cast
iron engine
block
M10
Replace, wash and oil
screws
Jointing torque
30 Nm
Torque angle
90
°
Torque angle
90
°
Cylinder head bolts
M54 / M56 /
M52TU / M52 /
with aluminum
engine block
M10
Replace, wash and oil
screws
Jointing torque
40 Nm
Torque angle
90
°
Torque angle
90
Music backtrack software, free download windows 10. °
Cylinder head bolts
N40 / N42 /
N45 / N46
M8 / M10
Tightening specifications
for M8 and M10 screws
are identical:
Replace, wash and oil
screws
Jointing torque
30 Nm
AZD Cylinder Head with Cover
BMW AG - TIS
20.02.2013 19:29
Issue status (12/2007) Valid only until next DVD is issued
Copyright
Page - 1 -
The ads above are Google-sponsored.
Clicking on them at every visit helps support this website!
Clicking on something inside an advertisement helps even more!Torque values© Copyright 2020, R. Fleischer
https://bmwmotorcycletech.info/torquevalues.htm
71B<>Read https://bmwmotorcycletech.info/torquespecs&problems.htm if you have not previously, either before or after this article.
Torque is the result of force applied, via a lever. The torque value is the product of the applied force multiplied by the lever length, all as applied 90° to the direction of the force.
Torque values between systems of measurement. Foot pounds is same as pound-feet; ounce-inches is same as inch-ounces. Some values rounded.
Nm x 0.738 = foot-pounds
Foot-pounds x 1.356 = Nm
Inch-ounces = 141.6 x Nm
Foot-pounds x 192 = inch-ounces
Inch-pound x 1.15 = CmKg
Mkp (or Mkg) x 7.23 = foot-pounds
CAUTION! Bolt head sizes ..!
BMW has been shipping some bolts with one wrench size smaller heads, using the original part numbers. A dealership might have both sizes in the same box on their shelves; or, perhaps you order a bolt & get one with a different head size than you expected. You likely do not have 18 & 16 mm wrenches in your Airhead tool kit! I have seen 18 mm being substituted for 19 mm; 16 mm substituted for 17 mm. K bikes don’t generally have this problem ..most started with the even numbered sizes. Later model BMW motorcycles are using the smaller heads. There is no need to carry extra & new sizes of wrenches, if you are careful & knowledgeable ..and, ..now you ARE!
Nuts, bolts ..grading systems & standard torque values:
Fittings from Germany are specified by a grading system that is different from what is used in the U.S. for American SAE items; and, in some cases, U.S. metric fasteners are not coded the same for strength. Fittings from Germany are, of course, Metric-sized. German bolts are marked on their heads by a number that corresponds to the over-all strength, called a Grade. Ratings (grades) used in the German DIN system are, in increasing order of strength: 5.6; 6.8; 6.9; 8.8; 10.9; and 12.9. 8.8 is a fairly strong metal and thus, after manufacturer, it results in a decently strong bolt, & that grade is quite common on BMW’s. While 8.8 is now commonly available in American hardware stores, many stores carry INFERIOR bolts, often unmarked ..and in some instances you can not depend on any markings it may have. BE CAREFUL! Nuts are a bit different ..see later, herein.
BMW uses bolts rated stronger than 8.8 in some places, such as shock absorber mounts, brakes, rods, crankshaft-to-flywheel or clutch carrier; ..etc. I suggest using BMW-supplied parts! A very complete list of all sorts of BMW nuts, bolts, washers, studs, and other items, is in my hardware article. In some instances BMW uses specially made & treated items. Don’t even think about using non-BMW fasteners for the driveshaft U-joint, flywheel or clutch carrier, rods..
There are standardized tables for recommended tightening torque for fasteners. The purpose of the tables as shown in the BMW Factory Service Manual is for those rare instances when there is no BMW specification elsewhere’s for torque for an item. It will be quite rare that you would have to consult those tables. The tables have the size of the fastener (M6, M8, M12, etc.) & optimum tightening torque for the grade of metal. In the DIN (German normal standards) system, bolts & nuts are assumed to be phosphate treated, no after-treatment, not galvanized. Separate or included in the same tables may be information if the steel parts are cadmium plated, or otherwise treated; ~30% less torque is recommended for cadmium plated parts. Cadmium plated parts are hardly available anymore from Europe. Tables are different for NUTS; nuts are rated as 8, 10, & 12 in strength ..with the same sort of variances for plating, lubrication, etc. Thus, a nut & bolt may have slightly different ratings. As a general rule, there are standards for all the various types of headed screws, bolts, etc. If no specification by BMW for your specific fastener/location, you can usually use standard table values. ASK on the Airheads List!
Warning!
Standardized charts/tables for general torque specifications for fasteners are almost always wrong for gasketed joints, joints of soft materials, and steel threaded items into various aluminum alloys. Closer values will be found in the BMW DIN standards chart located in the factory manuals ..BUT! ..because of the potential for serious damage, I do not list standardized values, only specific item values. I advise you to not use standardized values, whether industry type, or BMW charts... except as a last resort, particularly where I do not show a value in this article.
FIRST check this article, well-below, and see if I have a torque value for you!
I DO HAVE the BMW factory manual tables for ’common hardware’ torque values, strengths, etc. These are specific to types & sizes and ’treatments’ of such as bolts, but not specific for any place on your bike they are used at. I have thought about copying the charts and making them available by link in this article, but haven’t found any need, so far, and, I have strong concerns if you used such charts/table values, and not what is in the lower part of this article. The chart tables can be considerably wrong, for specific items, that BMW has specified the torque for, or, that I have.
Cadmium plating:
BMW is shipping parts (nuts, bolts, etc.) that are NO LONGER cadmium plated due to European environmental rules. These non-plated parts tend to RUST! These parts are chemically treated in a different way now, & nearly always OK at the original specified torque as used when they were cadmium plated, assuming the original specs used are in Nm. Unfortunately, there is no information on any of this, NOR any values to use if the parts are removed and then reinstalled, which DOES have an effect, sometimes a goodly one, on repeated fastening and unfastening torque values, not to mention the large reduction of any protective coating. This sort of thing has been going on a long time; and, has been quite prominent for some manufacturer’s spark plugs, which are fine if installed only once. If removed and reinstalled, then antiseize usually has to be added and the torque lessened a bit. Very few folks know these things. Until this is straightened-out (perhaps never), I suggest you use a faint trace of antiseize compound (where appropriate ONLY) and then reinstall at original torque values, or less (you need to be informed on that!). Try to obtain old original parts when yours need replacement ..in most instances (?) the part numbers are the same, & the dealership might have the cadmium plated ones under the SAME part number and even in the SAME box ..SO ASK.
LOCTITE:
With clean & dry threads to begin with, most types of Loctite cause UP TO ~15% increase in actual torque because Loctite acts as a very mild lubricant. This is the maximum effect. Because of the safety factor of parts strengths & typical usages, this effect of Loctite is usually ignored, as far as torque wrench settings are concerned. IMO, the effect is similar to the threads without Loctite, but with a faint trace of oil.
ANTISEIZE COMPOUND:
When using antiseize compound ..you SHOULD, and in many instances such as spark plug threads, MUST, allow for the change in effective torque (18-30% with anti-seize compound). USUALLY the only place on your Airhead you need to reduce the torque for, if the item has anti-seize compound on it, is at the spark plugs. I am a bit more anal about the subject, and tend to reduce torque SOME, with anti-seize compound, at such as the bolts/studs that hold the transmission to the engine, the Universal Joint at the rear of the transmission (where I usually use a mild Loctite, and not an antiseize compound), and some other places.
NEVER-EVER USE ANY ANTISEIZE OR LUBRICANT PRODUCT AT WHEEL BOLTS, NUTS, CONE FITTINGS, ETC., THAT HOLD THE REAR WHEEL OF YOUR BMW AIRHEAD OR CLASSIC K-BIKE TO THE REAR DRIVE. THIS MEANS MONOLOVER AND PARALEVER BIKES! If you find that your motorcycle has had antiseize used at the rear drive threads for those parts, or the parts themselves, do a very thorough job of cleaning the material off, using brushes and solvents. Leave all threads clean and totally dry. Torque only with a torque wrench unless in an emergency field situation. BMW torque values are for clean and dry threads at these particular places. Failure to follow my directions can result in a wheel departing the motorcycle!
Errors in literature from BMW ..this includes Clymers ..Haynes ..etc., ..when listed in foot pounds ..(BMW original errors are often carried forward into Clymers & Haynes books):
BMW of North America published a Service Bulletin, Volume II, NO. 23, Dated 3/82. I will quote some from that bulletin: ’May we advise you that from now on, any published BMW conversions found in brackets immediately behind the millimeter figures in all service literature (riders manuals, shop manuals, etc.) should not be used. Recent experience has shown that use of these figures has caused some major, expense errors by either a dealer service department, a customer, or an independent machine shop. Please inform all customers upon purchase of a shop manual, and also those customers that you are aware of that have one in their possession.’ This was signed by Herb Neas, National Service Manager. ’
There are errors above ..if you are a strict interpreter of words (millimeter should be metric Nm for instance; and ’from now on’).
What all this REALLY means:
When BMW has a published torque figure, it is ’usually’ OK as shown in Nm, (I say ’usually’ because sometimes I think BMW torque values at SOME PLACES are somewhat too high). DO NOT use BMW’s foot-pounds figures. I suggest that you calculate those yourself (Nm x 0.74 is foot-pounds). Clymers, Haynes, etc., have often copied BMW’s figures for Nm & foot-pounds & thus MAY have continued to carry forward the errors!..so be cautious. I personally know of errors even in the Factory Workshop Manuals. See article on this website: https://bmwmotorcycletech.info/torquespecs&problems.htm
Torque figures in the rest of this article are values Snowbum uses, & believes to be best, proper, .. & safe.
There have been NUMEROUS instances in which someone has questioned just what BMW means by its torque figures. This question usually arises because using a torque wrench at the limited clearance area of the driveshaft U-Joint bolts usually requires an adaptor, and BMW AND OTHERS sell adaptors ..which ’can’ add to the working-length of the torque wrench, thereby INcreasing the true bolt torque value from that set on the torque wrench; unless the adaptor is used at exactly 90°.
I know of no instances, on any BMW Airhead motorcycle, where the factory specification for torque is anything other that the ACTUAL torque on the fastener..with the exception of the R80GS, R80R, R100GS, R100R, where BMW has said that for certain items you must torque to a certain value which is then followed by a certain number of additional rotational degrees of tightening.
For all others but the R80GS, R80R, R100GS, R100R rod bolts or other such specified angular tightening, this means the torque figure is the value applied to the bolt itself. This is standard for industry & applies unless specifically noted to be different.
For the R80GS, R80R, R100GS, R100R, see the note well below, under Section 11-Engine, Rod Bolts.
The torque to be applied to a bolt or nut is the factory specified torque. You MUST calculate the adjustment factor for the torque wrench if the adaptor is not used at 90° to the torque wrench. In every instance (except at 90°), where the effective length of the torque wrench is increased, the torque wrench will need to be set to a value LESS than the specified value for the bolt. See the following article on how to do this: https://bmwmotorcycletech.info/IncTorqWr.htm
NORMALLY a torque wrench adaptor is used STRAIGHT-OUT from the torque wrench.
It is quite common for more modern vehicles to have a bolt or other item specified to be torqued to a stated value, and then the item is tightened further, by a number of rotational degrees as shown on a dial. Simple minds discography rar.
SLASH 2 information:
/2 information is in Jeff Dean’s article, which describes the /2 series rather well:
http://bmwdean.com/slash2.htm
Most of the rest of this article is divided into SECTIONS. Section numbers correspond to the identical numbers that BMW uses in its literature. Those two digits are often the first digits in an item’s part number.
Section 11-Engine:
Cylinder heads:
The 4 rocker arm stud & nut threads are to be oily. If they squeak, remove nut, oil immediately, & immediately re-tighten. Cylinder stud nuts are to be evenly cross-torqued, staging at ~10, ~18, & then CAREFULLY to a final value of 25 ftlbs. I ALWAYS use a final value target of 25 foot-pounds for ALL models ..even though I know pre-Nikasil models were specified at 29-31 foot-pounds in SOME old literature. I do NOT consider it safe to torque higher than a true 26 foot-pounds on any Airhead model, & that is with a known good, calibrated torque wrench. After the first torqueing after the heads have been off, for each later re-torqueing, do not back off all 6 nuts at once, just do one at a time. If setting end play, do one rocker at a time. The idea is that you will not have more than one or two of the nuts loose, in comparison to the others, for very long. Time is involved, as I think the metal will move, so don’t leave things unbalanced and loose.
M6 nut on the end of the automatic advance unit on models through 1978: 4 foot-pounds, which is 48 inch-pounds MAXIMUM! Be careful! It is good to use a FRESH waverly washer. It is not unusual to find that someone has over-torqued this nut; yet the camshaft threaded stub end is not yet broken (& maybe not yet visibly cracked). Thus, the threads could already be weakened. Be very cautious. I always torque this nut with my experienced hand, with a very small 4 (max 6) inch wrench. If you do not have a good feel for torque, especially torque that breaks things, use a torque wrench. Use 24 to 30 INCH-pounds to start with, and preferably a fresh waverly washer. If you have an INCH-OUNCE wrench, guess how you calculate inch-ounces? Yes, the conversion factor is near the top of this page. Your day (+) is ruined if you snap off the tip! So, be careful!!! The cam can be repaired in a couple of ways. See cams article: https://bmwmotorcycletech.info/cams.htm
Rocker arm adjustment lock nut:
13-16 foot-pounds (some say 12, & I am OK with that, less likely for thread problems). I do it by feel.
Valve cover center acorn nut:
14 foot-pounds (I am cautious, & do it by feel). I never tighten it as tight as specifications. LOOK at the far inner end of this associated stud. It goes through the head and appears next to the spark plug. If ALL the threads in the head are not engaged by the stud, you must decide if to remove the stud & reset it deeper (if the acorn nut with its washer will still have enough threads engaged); or, install BMW’s LONGER stud, which BMW supplies just for this particular purpose. See: https://bmwmotorcycletech.info/hardware.htm.
Outer metal cover, front of engine:
~5.5 foot-pounds
Engine to frame:
55 foot-pounds.
Crankshaft rod bolts:
ALWAYS use new ones. Not rusty. Low viscosity oil, oiled threads, 36 foot-pounds. Special tri-tool needed, see tools article: https://bmwmotorcycletech.info/tools.htm. R80GS, R80R, R100GS, R100R: specifications are 15 foot-pounds, then 40 degrees more. I don’t like that method all that much.
Crankshaft front bearing assembly (carrier): Most will be torqued at approximately 17ftlbs. See later, herein.
Flywheel bolts:
There have been a lot of different BMW specifications on flywheel bolt torque values over the years. I had previously used (clean & dry or faintest oil film from an oily cleaning solvent) torques of 42-45 foot-pounds on the 1973 & earlier engines with the 10 mm bolts. For the 1974 I used 52-55 ftlbs and for 1975 & later models with 11 mm bolts I used about 75 to 80 ftlbs. I have not changed that..except for the 11 mm bolts I use a faint oil sheen and 75-80 ftlbs. Some aftermarket literature will sho
https://diarynote.indered.space
*Bmw Bolt Torque Specs
*Bmw Torque Specs Pdf Tool
Bmw Torque Specs Pdf. Bmw Torque Specs Pdf. Post E46 M3 torque spec’s and I’ll add them here. Engine Oil drain plug: 18 ft-lbs Oil. Torque in Nm at rpm 260/280. 2,200 Number of cylinders and configuration In-line 6 Engine capacity in cm3 2,497 Stroke/bore in mm 82.8/80 Compression ratio 22: 1 Valves/cylinder 2 Period used 2/96 - 9/02 Engine management DDE2.1 DDE2.2 Engine M57D25O0 Series E39 Models 525d Power output in kW/ bhp at rpm 120/163 4,000 Torque in Nm at rpm 350. Jointing torque. 90 ° Torque angle. 90 ° Cylinder head bolts. N40 / N42 / N45 / N46. Tightening specifications. For M8 and M10 screws are identical: Replace, wash and oil screws. Jointing torque. AZD Cylinder Head with Cover.
*BMW 3-Series Torque Specs. Over 6,000 Automotive Torque Specs. Search Car Torque Specifications by Engine or Model. Torque Spec Database. Click on One of the Links Below. Model Torque Specifications. Engine Torque Specifications for BMW 3-Series: BMW 1.8L-110ci-S4 BMW 1.9L-116ci-S4.
*1 AZD00-01.frb 20/10/97 00 - General Instructions Type Screw Dimensio n Unit 00 00 Extract from company standard BMW N 600 02.0 The maximum tightening torques are: Only applicable to shaft screws with metric standard and fine threads acc.< PREV PAGENEXT PAGE >Page 1
11 12 Cylinder Head with Cover
Type
Thread
Tightening specification
Measure
Seiki vinyl cutter software. 5AZ Cylinder head bolts
M51 / M41
M11
Replace, wash and oil
screws
Jointing torque
80 Nm
Loosen all bolts 1/2 turn
Jointing torque
50 Nm
Torque angle
90
°
Torque angle
90
°
Warm-running time
25 min
Torque angle
90
°
6AZ Cylinder head bolts
M40 / M42 /
M43 / M43TU /
M44 / M50 /
S50 US / S52 /
M52 / with cast
iron engine
block
M10
Replace, wash and oil
screws
Jointing torque
30 Nm
Torque angle
90
°
Torque angle
90
°
Cylinder head bolts
M54 / M56 /
M52TU / M52 /
with aluminum
engine block
M10
Replace, wash and oil
screws
Jointing torque
40 Nm
Torque angle
90
°
Torque angle
90
Music backtrack software, free download windows 10. °
Cylinder head bolts
N40 / N42 /
N45 / N46
M8 / M10
Tightening specifications
for M8 and M10 screws
are identical:
Replace, wash and oil
screws
Jointing torque
30 Nm
AZD Cylinder Head with Cover
BMW AG - TIS
20.02.2013 19:29
Issue status (12/2007) Valid only until next DVD is issued
Copyright
Page - 1 -
The ads above are Google-sponsored.
Clicking on them at every visit helps support this website!
Clicking on something inside an advertisement helps even more!Torque values© Copyright 2020, R. Fleischer
https://bmwmotorcycletech.info/torquevalues.htm
71B<>Read https://bmwmotorcycletech.info/torquespecs&problems.htm if you have not previously, either before or after this article.
Torque is the result of force applied, via a lever. The torque value is the product of the applied force multiplied by the lever length, all as applied 90° to the direction of the force.
Torque values between systems of measurement. Foot pounds is same as pound-feet; ounce-inches is same as inch-ounces. Some values rounded.
Nm x 0.738 = foot-pounds
Foot-pounds x 1.356 = Nm
Inch-ounces = 141.6 x Nm
Foot-pounds x 192 = inch-ounces
Inch-pound x 1.15 = CmKg
Mkp (or Mkg) x 7.23 = foot-pounds
CAUTION! Bolt head sizes ..!
BMW has been shipping some bolts with one wrench size smaller heads, using the original part numbers. A dealership might have both sizes in the same box on their shelves; or, perhaps you order a bolt & get one with a different head size than you expected. You likely do not have 18 & 16 mm wrenches in your Airhead tool kit! I have seen 18 mm being substituted for 19 mm; 16 mm substituted for 17 mm. K bikes don’t generally have this problem ..most started with the even numbered sizes. Later model BMW motorcycles are using the smaller heads. There is no need to carry extra & new sizes of wrenches, if you are careful & knowledgeable ..and, ..now you ARE!
Nuts, bolts ..grading systems & standard torque values:
Fittings from Germany are specified by a grading system that is different from what is used in the U.S. for American SAE items; and, in some cases, U.S. metric fasteners are not coded the same for strength. Fittings from Germany are, of course, Metric-sized. German bolts are marked on their heads by a number that corresponds to the over-all strength, called a Grade. Ratings (grades) used in the German DIN system are, in increasing order of strength: 5.6; 6.8; 6.9; 8.8; 10.9; and 12.9. 8.8 is a fairly strong metal and thus, after manufacturer, it results in a decently strong bolt, & that grade is quite common on BMW’s. While 8.8 is now commonly available in American hardware stores, many stores carry INFERIOR bolts, often unmarked ..and in some instances you can not depend on any markings it may have. BE CAREFUL! Nuts are a bit different ..see later, herein.
BMW uses bolts rated stronger than 8.8 in some places, such as shock absorber mounts, brakes, rods, crankshaft-to-flywheel or clutch carrier; ..etc. I suggest using BMW-supplied parts! A very complete list of all sorts of BMW nuts, bolts, washers, studs, and other items, is in my hardware article. In some instances BMW uses specially made & treated items. Don’t even think about using non-BMW fasteners for the driveshaft U-joint, flywheel or clutch carrier, rods..
There are standardized tables for recommended tightening torque for fasteners. The purpose of the tables as shown in the BMW Factory Service Manual is for those rare instances when there is no BMW specification elsewhere’s for torque for an item. It will be quite rare that you would have to consult those tables. The tables have the size of the fastener (M6, M8, M12, etc.) & optimum tightening torque for the grade of metal. In the DIN (German normal standards) system, bolts & nuts are assumed to be phosphate treated, no after-treatment, not galvanized. Separate or included in the same tables may be information if the steel parts are cadmium plated, or otherwise treated; ~30% less torque is recommended for cadmium plated parts. Cadmium plated parts are hardly available anymore from Europe. Tables are different for NUTS; nuts are rated as 8, 10, & 12 in strength ..with the same sort of variances for plating, lubrication, etc. Thus, a nut & bolt may have slightly different ratings. As a general rule, there are standards for all the various types of headed screws, bolts, etc. If no specification by BMW for your specific fastener/location, you can usually use standard table values. ASK on the Airheads List!
Warning!
Standardized charts/tables for general torque specifications for fasteners are almost always wrong for gasketed joints, joints of soft materials, and steel threaded items into various aluminum alloys. Closer values will be found in the BMW DIN standards chart located in the factory manuals ..BUT! ..because of the potential for serious damage, I do not list standardized values, only specific item values. I advise you to not use standardized values, whether industry type, or BMW charts... except as a last resort, particularly where I do not show a value in this article.
FIRST check this article, well-below, and see if I have a torque value for you!
I DO HAVE the BMW factory manual tables for ’common hardware’ torque values, strengths, etc. These are specific to types & sizes and ’treatments’ of such as bolts, but not specific for any place on your bike they are used at. I have thought about copying the charts and making them available by link in this article, but haven’t found any need, so far, and, I have strong concerns if you used such charts/table values, and not what is in the lower part of this article. The chart tables can be considerably wrong, for specific items, that BMW has specified the torque for, or, that I have.
Cadmium plating:
BMW is shipping parts (nuts, bolts, etc.) that are NO LONGER cadmium plated due to European environmental rules. These non-plated parts tend to RUST! These parts are chemically treated in a different way now, & nearly always OK at the original specified torque as used when they were cadmium plated, assuming the original specs used are in Nm. Unfortunately, there is no information on any of this, NOR any values to use if the parts are removed and then reinstalled, which DOES have an effect, sometimes a goodly one, on repeated fastening and unfastening torque values, not to mention the large reduction of any protective coating. This sort of thing has been going on a long time; and, has been quite prominent for some manufacturer’s spark plugs, which are fine if installed only once. If removed and reinstalled, then antiseize usually has to be added and the torque lessened a bit. Very few folks know these things. Until this is straightened-out (perhaps never), I suggest you use a faint trace of antiseize compound (where appropriate ONLY) and then reinstall at original torque values, or less (you need to be informed on that!). Try to obtain old original parts when yours need replacement ..in most instances (?) the part numbers are the same, & the dealership might have the cadmium plated ones under the SAME part number and even in the SAME box ..SO ASK.
LOCTITE:
With clean & dry threads to begin with, most types of Loctite cause UP TO ~15% increase in actual torque because Loctite acts as a very mild lubricant. This is the maximum effect. Because of the safety factor of parts strengths & typical usages, this effect of Loctite is usually ignored, as far as torque wrench settings are concerned. IMO, the effect is similar to the threads without Loctite, but with a faint trace of oil.
ANTISEIZE COMPOUND:
When using antiseize compound ..you SHOULD, and in many instances such as spark plug threads, MUST, allow for the change in effective torque (18-30% with anti-seize compound). USUALLY the only place on your Airhead you need to reduce the torque for, if the item has anti-seize compound on it, is at the spark plugs. I am a bit more anal about the subject, and tend to reduce torque SOME, with anti-seize compound, at such as the bolts/studs that hold the transmission to the engine, the Universal Joint at the rear of the transmission (where I usually use a mild Loctite, and not an antiseize compound), and some other places.
NEVER-EVER USE ANY ANTISEIZE OR LUBRICANT PRODUCT AT WHEEL BOLTS, NUTS, CONE FITTINGS, ETC., THAT HOLD THE REAR WHEEL OF YOUR BMW AIRHEAD OR CLASSIC K-BIKE TO THE REAR DRIVE. THIS MEANS MONOLOVER AND PARALEVER BIKES! If you find that your motorcycle has had antiseize used at the rear drive threads for those parts, or the parts themselves, do a very thorough job of cleaning the material off, using brushes and solvents. Leave all threads clean and totally dry. Torque only with a torque wrench unless in an emergency field situation. BMW torque values are for clean and dry threads at these particular places. Failure to follow my directions can result in a wheel departing the motorcycle!
Errors in literature from BMW ..this includes Clymers ..Haynes ..etc., ..when listed in foot pounds ..(BMW original errors are often carried forward into Clymers & Haynes books):
BMW of North America published a Service Bulletin, Volume II, NO. 23, Dated 3/82. I will quote some from that bulletin: ’May we advise you that from now on, any published BMW conversions found in brackets immediately behind the millimeter figures in all service literature (riders manuals, shop manuals, etc.) should not be used. Recent experience has shown that use of these figures has caused some major, expense errors by either a dealer service department, a customer, or an independent machine shop. Please inform all customers upon purchase of a shop manual, and also those customers that you are aware of that have one in their possession.’ This was signed by Herb Neas, National Service Manager. ’
There are errors above ..if you are a strict interpreter of words (millimeter should be metric Nm for instance; and ’from now on’).
What all this REALLY means:
When BMW has a published torque figure, it is ’usually’ OK as shown in Nm, (I say ’usually’ because sometimes I think BMW torque values at SOME PLACES are somewhat too high). DO NOT use BMW’s foot-pounds figures. I suggest that you calculate those yourself (Nm x 0.74 is foot-pounds). Clymers, Haynes, etc., have often copied BMW’s figures for Nm & foot-pounds & thus MAY have continued to carry forward the errors!..so be cautious. I personally know of errors even in the Factory Workshop Manuals. See article on this website: https://bmwmotorcycletech.info/torquespecs&problems.htm
Torque figures in the rest of this article are values Snowbum uses, & believes to be best, proper, .. & safe.
There have been NUMEROUS instances in which someone has questioned just what BMW means by its torque figures. This question usually arises because using a torque wrench at the limited clearance area of the driveshaft U-Joint bolts usually requires an adaptor, and BMW AND OTHERS sell adaptors ..which ’can’ add to the working-length of the torque wrench, thereby INcreasing the true bolt torque value from that set on the torque wrench; unless the adaptor is used at exactly 90°.
I know of no instances, on any BMW Airhead motorcycle, where the factory specification for torque is anything other that the ACTUAL torque on the fastener..with the exception of the R80GS, R80R, R100GS, R100R, where BMW has said that for certain items you must torque to a certain value which is then followed by a certain number of additional rotational degrees of tightening.
For all others but the R80GS, R80R, R100GS, R100R rod bolts or other such specified angular tightening, this means the torque figure is the value applied to the bolt itself. This is standard for industry & applies unless specifically noted to be different.
For the R80GS, R80R, R100GS, R100R, see the note well below, under Section 11-Engine, Rod Bolts.
The torque to be applied to a bolt or nut is the factory specified torque. You MUST calculate the adjustment factor for the torque wrench if the adaptor is not used at 90° to the torque wrench. In every instance (except at 90°), where the effective length of the torque wrench is increased, the torque wrench will need to be set to a value LESS than the specified value for the bolt. See the following article on how to do this: https://bmwmotorcycletech.info/IncTorqWr.htm
NORMALLY a torque wrench adaptor is used STRAIGHT-OUT from the torque wrench.
It is quite common for more modern vehicles to have a bolt or other item specified to be torqued to a stated value, and then the item is tightened further, by a number of rotational degrees as shown on a dial. Simple minds discography rar.
SLASH 2 information:
/2 information is in Jeff Dean’s article, which describes the /2 series rather well:
http://bmwdean.com/slash2.htm
Most of the rest of this article is divided into SECTIONS. Section numbers correspond to the identical numbers that BMW uses in its literature. Those two digits are often the first digits in an item’s part number.
Section 11-Engine:
Cylinder heads:
The 4 rocker arm stud & nut threads are to be oily. If they squeak, remove nut, oil immediately, & immediately re-tighten. Cylinder stud nuts are to be evenly cross-torqued, staging at ~10, ~18, & then CAREFULLY to a final value of 25 ftlbs. I ALWAYS use a final value target of 25 foot-pounds for ALL models ..even though I know pre-Nikasil models were specified at 29-31 foot-pounds in SOME old literature. I do NOT consider it safe to torque higher than a true 26 foot-pounds on any Airhead model, & that is with a known good, calibrated torque wrench. After the first torqueing after the heads have been off, for each later re-torqueing, do not back off all 6 nuts at once, just do one at a time. If setting end play, do one rocker at a time. The idea is that you will not have more than one or two of the nuts loose, in comparison to the others, for very long. Time is involved, as I think the metal will move, so don’t leave things unbalanced and loose.
M6 nut on the end of the automatic advance unit on models through 1978: 4 foot-pounds, which is 48 inch-pounds MAXIMUM! Be careful! It is good to use a FRESH waverly washer. It is not unusual to find that someone has over-torqued this nut; yet the camshaft threaded stub end is not yet broken (& maybe not yet visibly cracked). Thus, the threads could already be weakened. Be very cautious. I always torque this nut with my experienced hand, with a very small 4 (max 6) inch wrench. If you do not have a good feel for torque, especially torque that breaks things, use a torque wrench. Use 24 to 30 INCH-pounds to start with, and preferably a fresh waverly washer. If you have an INCH-OUNCE wrench, guess how you calculate inch-ounces? Yes, the conversion factor is near the top of this page. Your day (+) is ruined if you snap off the tip! So, be careful!!! The cam can be repaired in a couple of ways. See cams article: https://bmwmotorcycletech.info/cams.htm
Rocker arm adjustment lock nut:
13-16 foot-pounds (some say 12, & I am OK with that, less likely for thread problems). I do it by feel.
Valve cover center acorn nut:
14 foot-pounds (I am cautious, & do it by feel). I never tighten it as tight as specifications. LOOK at the far inner end of this associated stud. It goes through the head and appears next to the spark plug. If ALL the threads in the head are not engaged by the stud, you must decide if to remove the stud & reset it deeper (if the acorn nut with its washer will still have enough threads engaged); or, install BMW’s LONGER stud, which BMW supplies just for this particular purpose. See: https://bmwmotorcycletech.info/hardware.htm.
Outer metal cover, front of engine:
~5.5 foot-pounds
Engine to frame:
55 foot-pounds.
Crankshaft rod bolts:
ALWAYS use new ones. Not rusty. Low viscosity oil, oiled threads, 36 foot-pounds. Special tri-tool needed, see tools article: https://bmwmotorcycletech.info/tools.htm. R80GS, R80R, R100GS, R100R: specifications are 15 foot-pounds, then 40 degrees more. I don’t like that method all that much.
Crankshaft front bearing assembly (carrier): Most will be torqued at approximately 17ftlbs. See later, herein.
Flywheel bolts:
There have been a lot of different BMW specifications on flywheel bolt torque values over the years. I had previously used (clean & dry or faintest oil film from an oily cleaning solvent) torques of 42-45 foot-pounds on the 1973 & earlier engines with the 10 mm bolts. For the 1974 I used 52-55 ftlbs and for 1975 & later models with 11 mm bolts I used about 75 to 80 ftlbs. I have not changed that..except for the 11 mm bolts I use a faint oil sheen and 75-80 ftlbs. Some aftermarket literature will sho
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